Two eggplants whole roasting on a grill
Eggplant 101: What to Know to Achieve Outstanding Dishes

When they’re good, they are great! Eggplant lovers know that this fickle fruit is truly one of the earth’s most delicious gifts. But, when treated improperly or bought out of season, the potential for subpar results skyrockets.

I’ve read the headlines… the ones screaming at me about all the mistakes I’m making when cooking eggplant. However, when I delve into the meat of the articles, the tips they give are not very helpful, and in fact, often contradict each other. For example, one article told me to be careful of using too much oil, another says eggplants are sponges, and I must use a ton of oil for proper cooking. Then I’ve read that I must always peel my eggplant for optimal texture and flavor, while a different source recommends that one disregard anything that they may have previously heard and to keep the peel on. What is one to believe?

To complicate matters, there are a vast number of eggplant varieties that are grown commercially or are available at farmer’s markets – each truly with their own nuance. Globe eggplant (the most common shiny, purple type), Italian, Japanese, Fairy Tale, Graffiti and white eggplant are just a few you may encounter, requiring different preparations and which are appropriate in unique and specific dishes. 

So what is one to do? My best advice is to source good recipes.

It sounds simplistic, yet a good recipe will instruct you on the type of eggplant to purchase, and how best to prepare and cook it for that particular dish. Some recipes require that you salt the exposed eggplant flesh, drawing moisture out so that it can better caramelize during the cooking process. Another recipe might call for leaving the eggplant whole and grilling or broiling it to achieve a smoky, soft interior. Perhaps you might lightly brush slices with oil before grilling, or conversely, fry them in a good amount of olive oil for an eggplant Parm. A good recipe writer will convey the proper technique clearly, and in a way that is easy to follow.

Of course, I won’t just leave it at that. I do have some quick tips and suggestions so that you have a foundational understanding of how best to approach eggplant, plus links to some of my favorite recipes. If you take nothing else away from this, let it be the importance of starting with freshly harvested eggplant. They do not ripen once picked, so ideally they are harvested at the exact right time; not too early, not too late. Once off the vine, they won’t last long, so if the crop needs to travel from below the equator to reach your kitchen, chances are what you’re cutting into won’t be worth the salt. Here’s a short guide to help you end up with the best results:

How to Pick a Good Eggplant

First, look at the skin. It should be shiny and taut, not at all dimpled or wrinkled. Next, pick it up. The eggplant should feel heavy for its size, and be firm. If it is soft or light, don’t buy it. 

How to Store Your Eggplant

When you get home, it’s best to use your eggplant as soon as possible. They don’t love to be refrigerated, and will deteriorate if left on the counter for too long, so in an ideal world you’d use it the same day you purchase it. If you aren’t going to use it right away, store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

A Few Notes on Methods of Cooking

Contrary to popular belief, salting sliced eggplant won’t save a bitter, seedy eggplant. What this preparation does is draw out excess moisture, which will allow the flesh to caramelize more quickly. Salting is appropriate when pan frying at a high heat. You’ll want to make sure to dab the moisture away with a paper towel before cooking the eggplant slices. 

If you are going for a smoky result, where the soft eggplant flesh is to be used in a spread or soup, your recipe will likely instruct you to broil or grill the eggplant whole. Be sure to pierce the flesh all over with a sharp knife, as the steam that builds up inside can cause the eggplant to explode if it’s not released. Turn it often, so that it chars evenly and becomes soft throughout. Once cool enough to handle, remove and discard the burnt skin. This method is best for larger varieties, such as globe or Italian eggplant.

If roasting eggplant, it can be cut in several different ways. One of my favorites styles is cut lengthwise in half. The exposed flesh is scored in a cross hatch pattern, then seasoned with olive oil and salt and roasted until soft. The cooked eggplant halves can be stuffed, or topped with caramelized onions, or marinated feta, for instance. I also often cut my eggplant into wedges, toss in olive oil and salt, then roast low and slow until completely tender. This method is fantastic on top of a bed of garlicky yogurt, topped with fresh herbs and pomegranate seeds. Many different varieties can be roasted.

Steaming is popular for Japanese eggplant, and is a method often found in Asian recipes. Simply place your cut eggplant in a steamer and cook until softened. When cooking in this style, something along the lines of a miso vinaigrette will season your steamed eggplant nicely. 

Three of my Favorite Eggplant Recipes:

Eggplant, Feta & Mint Spread

Eggplant is a little fickle. Get it out of season, and it can be bitter with an unpleasant texture. Make this spread when you can find good eggplant. There are only a few ingredients, which work together harmoniously with the eggplant to highlight the texture and flavor, and will not mask a subpar specimen. I like to serve it with olive oil crostini, but a sturdy cracker will also work.
View Recipe

Roasted Butternut Squash with Smoky Eggplant & Basil

Adapted from Ottolenghi The Cookbook
When I first came across this recipe, I thought it strange to pair an autumn vegetable with a summer vegetable, and didn't pay it any attention. One day while walking around the farmers market in early fall, I saw the last of the eggplant and the first of the butternut squash together on the same table. Since then, this recipe has become one that I return to again and again at that magical time of year when both are in season. They are a natural pairing, and a delicious one.
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Grilled Mixed Vegetables with Burrata & Basil Vinaigrette

One taste of this zippy basil vinaigrette and you'll be putting it on everything. It goes particularly well with the distinctive grilled flavor of these veggies, but I also enjoy it on green salads, studded with corn, tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Here, burrata adds a richness to the grilled vegetables, and plays so well off of the pungent garlic and basil vinaigrette.
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