A few years ago when I was writing my first cookbook, I asked friends and family to help with recipe testing and reviews. One friend texted me on several occasions, letting me know that the dishes were turning out far too salty. The interesting thing was that I was not getting similar feedback from others that were testing the same dishes. I finally asked her what kind of salt she was using. Though kosher salt was specified in my recipes, it turns out she was using what she had, table salt, without knowing that there was a huge difference between the salinity of the two. Her results were doomed from the git-go, as a teaspoon of table salt is twice as salty as kosher salt.

Even among kosher salts, the salinity varies widely between brands. For instance, the darling of the foodie world, Diamond Crystal, is half as salty as the coarser crystals of Morton’s brand. However, of important note, that is only when the salt is measured using volume measurements, such as teaspoons and tablespoons. If you were to weigh them, they would be equal in salinity by weight, as would all varieties of salt. But since most Americans do not use scales for measurements, and most recipes do not specify salt by weight, getting the salt right in your dish can be incredibly frustrating. 

Now, consider other common varieties found in home kitchens, such as fine sea salt, flaked sea salt, Himalayan salt, and Fleur du Sel to name a few. Each one has a different texture and flavor profile… it’s enough to drive a home cook batty. How is one supposed to navigate the nuances?

This short primer of some of the most common salts will get you off on the right foot. Armed with this knowledge, you’ll be on your way to more balanced cooking. Plus, I’ll give you tips for getting the salt right in your dishes, every time, no matter what’s on your counter. 

Kosher Salt

Many professional chefs and dedicated home cooks use kosher salt to season their dishes during the cooking process. The size of the grain is one of the primary reasons for this. Cooks are able to use their fingertips to feel the salt, adding pinches as they go to dial in the correct seasoning. 

There are two main brands available in the U.S., Morton’s and Diamond Crystal. Morton’s has a bit of a larger grain, and is coarser, while Diamond Crystal is smaller and more delicate. I’ve used Morton’s for decades, because for a long time that is the only brand that was available where I live. I got used to the way the grains feel in my fingertips, and can season dishes without having to measure because I have become so familiar with it. When Diamond Crystal became available a few years ago, I jumped at the chance to try it out, knowing it’s the one that many cooks adore. As soon as the box I had bought was empty, I went right back to Morton’s. It’s what I know, and I realized that neither one is better than the other. They both season food.

As mentioned above, Morton’s is twice as salty by volume as Diamond Crystal. If your recipe does not specify which brand they are using, assume it is using Diamond Crystal to avoid over salting. Then, taste the dish and add more salt if needed. 

Flaked Salt

French Fleur du Sel or England’s Maldon brand are examples of flakey sea salts. They are best used as finishing salts. Sprinkle them on avocado toast, a thick slice of buttered sourdough, or freshly sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. You can cook with them, but the expense of most flakey salt makes them better suited to garnishing.

Flavored Salts

Use flavored salts, such as truffled salt, chili salt or smoked salt, like you would a flakey salt. They are best for sprinkling on finished dishes, instead of using for cooking where it’s harder to control the correct amount of seasoning you want to add to the dish. Try these salts on things like scrambled eggs, toast, fresh vegetables like sliced cucumber, tomatoes or jicama, or steamed vegetables. 

Himalayan Rock Salt

Pink Himalayan salt can come in coarse or fine varieties. You can use the fine varieties in cooking, and the large grain type in salt grinders. It will not impart a noticeable flavor when used in cooking, however some people believe there are added health benefits to pink salt. Though this has not been proven. 

Tips for Cooking with Salt

If even this short list leaves you reeling, here are a few tips to cooking with whatever type of salt you have. 

1. When cooking, season from the beginning. Starting your onions with a pinch of salt not only helps them soften and release their liquids, it seasons them from the start, providing a backbone of flavor that will carry through your dish. I always season my food with a modest amount of salt from the very beginning.
2. Taste, taste, taste. All along the way, taste your food and adjust the seasoning as needed. Remember, you can’t take it away, so add judiciously, tasting each time after an addition of salt. 
3. For baking or cooking with raw ingredients such as eggs, where it’s not possible to taste as you go along, trust your recipe and use the type of salt that is specified. More and more recipes are giving weight measurements as well as volume measurements. If you have a scale at home, this is a surefire way to ensure you will get the correct amount of salt in your dish. 
4. As I noted earlier, salt is salt and it will season your food no matter what kind you use, even table salt. Most importantly, if you are using a salt different from one specified in the recipe you are following, adjust accordingly and always make sure to taste along the way.